
| I replaced my 400 watt HID Metal Halide lighting system with a more energy efficient six bulb 54 watt T5 high output fluorescent fixture. |

| This plant was started from a very small crown in mid 2003. Flower appeared in May 2008 after forcing. |

A sucker growing from the mother plant.

| Sucker was planted in August 2008. With 12 hours of light a day and optimum growing conditions, it should be ready to force in May 2009. |

This year's fruit. It should be ready to pick this November.
| The pineapple (Ananas comosus) belongs to the bromeliaceae
family. It is a terrestrial (soil growing) bromeliad, and it is native to the
tropical and warm subtropical regions of Brazil and Paraguay. The pineapple is a slow-growing, herbaceous, perennial herb. It has a short stem which is covered by long, narrow, sword-shaped leaves arranged in a rosette pattern. Some varieties have spines along the leaf edges. The plant grows about 3 feet (100cm) in height and spreads up to 5 feet (152cm). A large plant can have as many as 80 leaves. At the time of flowering, a flower stalk appears from the plant's center bearing a reddish cone-shaped leaf cluster. A purple or red flower appears between each leaf. Flowering starts from the bottom and progresses towards the top. No special pollination is required. The fruit is seedless; however, if two different varieties are grown near each other, the cross pollination produces tiny black seeds. The fruit slowly develops and ripens in 4 to 5 months after flowering. |

| Obtain a pineapple fruit that has an unbruised, dark green leafy crown. Hold the fruit and grab the crown at the base and remove it by twisting it off. Pull a few of the bottom leaves off until 3/4" to 1" ( 1.9 to 2.5cm) of the stem is exposed. Along the exposed stem, roots will form. Set the crown aside for a few days in a warm, airy place out of direct sunlight until a callous forms. After that, the crown is ready to be planted. |
| Plant the crown in a 8" (20cm) pot. The best soil for
pineapples is a well-drained, moisture retentive, acidic mix with a high
organic matter content. A potting mix of 1 part peat moss, 1 part
perlite, and 1 part leaf mold or worm castings works well. Gently
firm the soil up around the
crown's base to support it. Move to a warm, bright area with filtered sunlight.
Keep the soil moist, not wet and occasionally mist the leaves. About 4 weeks
later, the leaves will begin to grow out. Gradually introduce to full sun. After a year of good growth, transplant the pineapple plant to a 10" or 12" (25cm or 30cm) pot. Use the same type of soil mix it was growing in. |
| Pineapple plants have a high demand for nitrogen, potassium, and iron. They grow very well when needed elements are supplied at a slow, constant rate. Apply a slow release, non-burning fertilizer to the soil every 3 months or water with a very weak fertilizer solution at every watering. |
| There seems to be a common misconception that all bromeliads like water
poured in the center of the plant. This is not true! The "tank" bromeliads,
like Aechema fasciata, need water held in the center. When water remains in the
center of a pineapple plant, it can lead to rot. Water the soil thoroughly
until it drains into the bottom saucer. Don't let water stand in saucer. Allow
the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Mist the leaves til runoff occurs. Bromeliads like the pH of the water to be slightly acidic. Check with your local water department to find out about the pH. If your water is hard (alkaline), add 1 tsp of vinegar per quart of water. |
| Pineapples enjoy evenly warm temps all year. A warm area above 70°F
(21°C) is needed for good, steady growth. Move plants outdoors when both
days and nights are consistantly warm. Plants can tolerate occasional lows in
the 50's (10°C - 15°C), but prefer 60's (16°C - 20°C). Highs
should be 75°F to 90°F (24°C to 32°C). When temperatures reach
90°F (32°C) or more, plants should be placed in filtered sunlight to
avoid sunburn. Humidity can be a problem indoors during the heating season. The humidty level should be maintained at 50% to 55%. Mist plant whenever possible. A room humidifier placed on a timer provides an effective way of maintaining humidty levels. |
| Having adequate light indoors is absolutely essential for good growth
and fruiting. Pineapple plants require at least 12 hours of bright light a day. Artificial lighting should be used as a sole light source
or as a supplement to natural daylight. High intensity discharge lighting and T5 high output fluorescent lamps offer the best quality light. Check out my online garden suppliers page. When it is time for your pineapple plant to go outdoors for the summer or indoors for the winter, it needs to be acclimated to its new environment. The plant should gradually be introduced to more shade over a period 3 weeks before going indoors. When going outdoors, place plant under a shade cloth or in an area that only receives the weak morning or evening sun. Over a period of 3 weeks, gradually introduce to more sunlight. |
| When leaves start getting out of bounds, prune them back with a sharp pair of scissors. Cut the leaf straight across then shape the cut like an arrow. This will make the pruned leaf look more natural. To remove yellowing and dead leaves, split them straight down the middle and pull apart from the stem. |
| Indoor pineapple plants are not bothered by many pests or diseases.
However, mealybugs and scale insects do attack them. These pests can be
effective controlled by using a 1% to 2% light horticultural oil spray. Diseases that usually appear on indoor pineapple plants are usually due to incorrect cultural practices. Overwatering can cause root rot. Leaves staying wet from misting without adequate air circulation can cause mildew problems. |
| Troubleshooting Pineapples | ||
|---|---|---|
| Symptoms | Probable Causes | Solutions |
| Leaf edges curl under | Low humidity, underwatering, acclimation | Buy humidifier to increase relative indoor humidity, water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, gradually introduce plant to new environment |
| Brown, soft patches near leaf edges | Overwatering, leaves staying wet for too long | Water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, improve air circulation around plant |
| Brown spots on leaves | Fertilizer burn, salts in water | Fertilizer solution shouldn't be over 200ppm, do not use tap water from water softeners due to sodium content |
| No plant growth | Cool temps, rootbound, underwatering, low light or not enough light | Temp over 70°F (21°C) needed for good growth, check rootball, water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, move to brighter area |
| Yellow or brown leaf tips | Low humidity, fertilizer burn, too cold | Buy humidifier to increase humidity, fertilizer solution shouldn't be over 200ppm, minimum temperature 60°F (16°C) |
| Fruit not large | Plant was forced to bloom when young, inadequate leaf surface | Force bloom when the plant has a minimum of 40 mature leaves on it. Each leaf should measure over 18" (46cm) long. This insures a decent fruit size. |
| Yellowish, white, or red spots on leaves | Mealybugs or scale insects | Look for pests in leaf axils and treat with a light oil spray. |
| Lower leaves yellow and dry up | Underwatering, rootbound, acclimation (high light to low light), dimming artificial light | Water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, check rootball and repot if necessary, gradually introduce plant to a new environment, change light bulb |
| Yellow-green leaves | Nitrogen deficiency, rootbound, improper acclimation- low light to high light | Use a highly diluted 2-1-2 fertilizer, check rootball and repot if necessary, gradually introduce plant to a new environment |

| Flowering occurs naturally in mature plants when the days are
short and cool. However, pineapple plants seldom flower on their
own under indoor cultivation. A technique called
"forcing" has to be used to initiate the flowering cycle. Forcing can be achieved by using chemical hormones, calcium carbide, acetylene gas, or ethylene gas. Chemical hormones such as Ethephon and Omaflora are used commercially. Calcium carbide needs to be handled with caution. It is used to saturate water with acetylene gas (flammable). The treated water is added to the plant. Ethylene gas is produced naturally from apples, pears, peaches, and other fruits. To maximize ethylene exposure, enclose the plant in a large, clear plastic bag with 2 or 3 fruits for one week. Approximately 45 to 60 days later, a flower cluster should appear in the plant's center. Forcing is most effective when done during cool temperatures (mid to upper 60's/16C-21C). |

| For maximum sweetness and flavor, it is best to pick the fruit when it is fully ripe. Once the fruit is harvested, it will not improve in quality! Depending upon the variety grown, a ripe pineapple can either be yellow-orange, orange-red, yellow, red, green, or purple. To harvest fruit, use a sharp knife or pruning shears and cut stalk one inch below the fruit. |

| Pineapple plants, like all bromeliads, slowly fade away after
flowering. Before this happens, the plants will produce one or more types of
leafy offshoots: crowns, slips, suckers, and ratoons. Crowns are shoots which
grow on the tops of the pineapple fruits. Slips are shoots which grow on the
flowering stalk. Suckers (above photo) are shoots which originate from the leaf axils on the
stem, and ratoons are suckers that grow from the stem below soil level. Crowns should be the first type of propagating material used if you want to establish new plants quickly. Suckers and ratoons are generally larger, stronger, and bear fruits sooner. Remove them with a sharp, serrated knife when half the size of the mother plant. Plant suckers the same way as crowns. |
| Cayenne or Smooth Cayenne |
| Cayenne is the industry standard. It is the most widely grown variety in the world. The plant is large with nearly spineless leaves that take on a reddish coloration in strong light. It can bear fruit weighing up to 6 lbs (3kgs). The fruit is high in sugar, acid and fiber. Cayenne is the main processing and canning variety. Good for fresh eating. |
| Natal Queen |
| This plant is small and compact with spiny leaves that become tinged with a reddish-purple coloration in strong light. The fruit weighs up to 3 lbs (1.5kgs) and has a golden-yellow shell when ripe. The flesh is yellow, sweet, and pleasantly crisp. It stores very well. Good for fresh eating. |
| Red Spanish |
| This variety is grown mostly in the Carribean. The plant has spiny leaves. The fruit has an orange-red shell when ripe and it can weigh up to 6 lbs (3 kgs). The flesh is pale yellow, slightly acidic, fragrant, and rich. |
| Perola |
| This variety is grown extensively in Brazil. The plant is medium sized and a vigorous grower with spiny, dark green leaves. It produces conical-shaped fruit weighing up to 2 lbs (1 kg). The fruit has a green shell with yellow eyes when ripe. The flesh is white, tender, fragrant, high in sugar, and rich in flavor. Outstanding for fresh eating! |
| Kona Sugarloaf |
| This plant has smooth leaves and produces fruit that weighs up to 6 lbs (3 kgs). The fruit has a greenish-yellow shell when ripe. The flesh is white, juicy, low in acid, high in sugar, rich in flavor with an edible core. Outstanding for fresh eating! |
| Del Monte Gold |
| This variety is a hybrid of Smooth Cayenne. The plant is large and vigorous with nearly spineless leaves. The fruit is smaller than Cayenne, and it has an orange-yellow shell when ripe. The flesh is yellow, very sweet, and low in acid. |
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