Pineapple Update


Plants growing under T5HO fixture

I replaced my 400 watt HID Metal Halide lighting system with a more energy efficient six bulb 54 watt T5 high output fluorescent fixture.



This plant was started from a very small crown in mid 2003. Flower appeared in May 2008 after forcing.


A growing offshoot

A sucker growing from the mother plant.



Harvested offshoot

Sucker was planted in August 2008. With 12 hours of light a day and optimum growing conditions, it should be ready to force in May 2009.



Plant Description


Harvested offshoot

This year's fruit. It should be ready to pick this November.


The pineapple (Ananas comosus) belongs to the bromeliaceae family. It is a terrestrial (soil growing) bromeliad, and it is native to the tropical and warm subtropical regions of Brazil and Paraguay.

The pineapple is a slow-growing, herbaceous, perennial herb. It has a short stem which is covered by long, narrow, sword-shaped leaves arranged in a rosette pattern. Some varieties have spines along the leaf edges. The plant grows about 3 feet (100cm) in height and spreads up to 5 feet (152cm). A large plant can have as many as 80 leaves. At the time of flowering, a flower stalk appears from the plant's center bearing a reddish cone-shaped leaf cluster. A purple or red flower appears between each leaf. Flowering starts from the bottom and progresses towards the top. No special pollination is required. The fruit is seedless; however, if two different varieties are grown near each other, the cross pollination produces tiny black seeds. The fruit slowly develops and ripens in 4 to 5 months after flowering.


Crown Preparation



Harvested offshoot


Obtain a pineapple fruit that has an unbruised, dark green leafy crown. Hold the fruit and grab the crown at the base and remove it by twisting it off. Pull a few of the bottom leaves off until 3/4" to 1" ( 1.9 to 2.5cm) of the stem is exposed. Along the exposed stem, roots will form. Set the crown aside for a few days in a warm, airy place out of direct sunlight until a callous forms. After that, the crown is ready to be planted.

Planting

Plant the crown in a 8" (20cm) pot. The best soil for pineapples is a well-drained, moisture retentive, acidic mix with a high organic matter content. A potting mix of 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite, and 1 part leaf mold or worm castings works well. Gently firm the soil up around the crown's base to support it. Move to a warm, bright area with filtered sunlight. Keep the soil moist, not wet and occasionally mist the leaves. About 4 weeks later, the leaves will begin to grow out. Gradually introduce to full sun.

After a year of good growth, transplant the pineapple plant to a 10" or 12" (25cm or 30cm) pot. Use the same type of soil mix it was growing in. 

Feeding

Pineapple plants have a high demand for nitrogen, potassium, and iron. They grow very well when needed elements are supplied at a slow, constant rate. Apply a slow release, non-burning fertilizer to the soil every 3 months or water with a very weak fertilizer solution at every watering.

Watering

There seems to be a common misconception that all bromeliads like water poured in the center of the plant. This is not true! The "tank" bromeliads, like Aechema fasciata, need water held in the center. When water remains in the center of a pineapple plant, it can lead to rot. Water the soil thoroughly until it drains into the bottom saucer. Don't let water stand in saucer. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Mist the leaves til runoff occurs.

Bromeliads like the pH of the water to be slightly acidic. Check with your local water department to find out about the pH. If your water is hard (alkaline), add 1 tsp of vinegar per quart of water.

Temperature/Humidity

Pineapples enjoy evenly warm temps all year. A warm area above 70°F (21°C) is needed for good, steady growth. Move plants outdoors when both days and nights are consistantly warm. Plants can tolerate occasional lows in the 50's (10°C - 15°C), but prefer 60's (16°C - 20°C). Highs should be 75°F to 90°F (24°C to 32°C). When temperatures reach 90°F (32°C) or more, plants should be placed in filtered sunlight to avoid sunburn.

Humidity can be a problem indoors during the heating season. The humidty level should be maintained at 50% to 55%. Mist plant whenever possible. A room humidifier placed on a timer provides an effective way of maintaining humidty levels.

Light

Having adequate light indoors is absolutely essential for good growth and fruiting. Pineapple plants require at least 12 hours of bright light a day. Artificial lighting should be used as a sole light source or as a supplement to natural daylight.

High intensity discharge lighting and T5 high output fluorescent lamps offer the best quality light. Check out my online garden suppliers page.

When it is time for your pineapple plant to go outdoors for the summer or indoors for the winter, it needs to be acclimated to its new environment. The plant should gradually be introduced to more shade over a period 3 weeks before going indoors. When going outdoors, place plant under a shade cloth or in an area that only receives the weak morning or evening sun. Over a period of 3 weeks, gradually introduce to more sunlight.

Pruning

When leaves start getting out of bounds, prune them back with a sharp pair of scissors. Cut the leaf straight across then shape the cut like an arrow. This will make the pruned leaf look more natural. To remove yellowing and dead leaves, split them straight down the middle and pull apart from the stem.

Pests and Diseases

Indoor pineapple plants are not bothered by many pests or diseases. However, mealybugs and scale insects do attack them. These pests can be effective controlled by using a 1% to 2% light horticultural oil spray.

Diseases that usually appear on indoor pineapple plants are usually due to incorrect cultural practices. Overwatering can cause root rot. Leaves staying wet from misting without adequate air circulation can cause mildew problems.


Troubleshooting Pineapples
Symptoms Probable Causes Solutions
Leaf edges curl under Low humidity, underwatering, acclimation Buy humidifier to increase relative indoor humidity, water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, gradually introduce plant to new environment 
Brown, soft patches near leaf edges  Overwatering, leaves staying wet for too long Water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, improve air circulation around plant
Brown spots on leaves Fertilizer burn, salts in water  Fertilizer solution shouldn't be over 200ppm, do not use tap water from water softeners due to sodium content 
No plant growth  Cool temps, rootbound, underwatering, low light or not enough light  Temp over 70°F (21°C) needed for good growth, check rootball, water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, move to brighter area 
Yellow or brown leaf tips  Low humidity, fertilizer burn, too cold   Buy humidifier to increase humidity, fertilizer solution shouldn't be over 200ppm, minimum temperature 60°F (16°C) 
Fruit not large  Plant was forced to bloom when young, inadequate leaf surface  Force bloom when the plant has a minimum of 40 mature leaves on it. Each leaf should measure over 18" (46cm) long. This insures a decent fruit size.  
Yellowish, white, or red spots on leaves  Mealybugs or scale insects Look for pests in leaf axils and treat with a light oil spray. 
Lower leaves yellow and dry up  Underwatering, rootbound, acclimation (high light to low light), dimming artificial light   Water when the top 2" (5cm) of soil is moderately dry, check rootball and repot if necessary, gradually introduce plant to a new environment, change light bulb  
Yellow-green leaves  Nitrogen deficiency, rootbound, improper acclimation- low light to high light   Use a highly diluted 2-1-2 fertilizer, check rootball and repot if necessary, gradually introduce plant to a new environment  


Flowering and Fruiting


Harvested offshoot


Flowering occurs naturally in mature plants when the days are short and cool. However, pineapple plants seldom flower on their own under indoor cultivation. A technique called "forcing" has to be used to initiate the flowering cycle.

Forcing can be achieved by using chemical hormones, calcium carbide, acetylene gas, or ethylene gas. Chemical hormones such as Ethephon and Omaflora are used commercially. Calcium carbide needs to be handled with caution. It is used to saturate water with acetylene gas (flammable). The treated water is added to the plant. Ethylene gas is produced naturally from apples, pears, peaches, and other fruits. To maximize ethylene exposure, enclose the plant in a large, clear plastic bag with 2 or 3 fruits for one week. Approximately 45 to 60 days later, a flower cluster should appear in the plant's center. Forcing is most effective when done during cool temperatures (mid to upper 60's/16C-21C).


Harvesting


'White Sugarloaf' harvested fruit


For maximum sweetness and flavor, it is best to pick the fruit when it is fully ripe. Once the fruit is harvested, it will not improve in quality! Depending upon the variety grown, a ripe pineapple can either be yellow-orange, orange-red, yellow, red, green, or purple. To harvest fruit, use a sharp knife or pruning shears and cut stalk one inch below the fruit.


Propagation



Harvested offshoot


Pineapple plants, like all bromeliads, slowly fade away after flowering. Before this happens, the plants will produce one or more types of leafy offshoots: crowns, slips, suckers, and ratoons. Crowns are shoots which grow on the tops of the pineapple fruits. Slips are shoots which grow on the flowering stalk. Suckers (above photo) are shoots which originate from the leaf axils on the stem, and ratoons are suckers that grow from the stem below soil level.

Crowns should be the first type of propagating material used if you want to establish new plants quickly. Suckers and ratoons are generally larger, stronger, and bear fruits sooner. Remove them with a sharp, serrated knife when half the size of the mother plant. Plant suckers the same way as crowns.


Varieties 

Cayenne or Smooth Cayenne
Cayenne is the industry standard. It is the most widely grown variety in the world. The plant is large with nearly spineless leaves that take on a reddish coloration in strong light. It can bear fruit weighing up to 6 lbs (3kgs). The fruit is high in sugar, acid and fiber. Cayenne is the main processing and canning variety. Good for fresh eating.

Natal Queen
This plant is small and compact with spiny leaves that become tinged with a reddish-purple coloration in strong light. The fruit weighs up to 3 lbs (1.5kgs) and has a golden-yellow shell when ripe. The flesh is yellow, sweet, and pleasantly crisp. It stores very well. Good for fresh eating.

Red Spanish
This variety is grown mostly in the Carribean. The plant has spiny leaves. The fruit has an orange-red shell when ripe and it can weigh up to 6 lbs (3 kgs). The flesh is pale yellow, slightly acidic, fragrant, and rich.

Perola
This variety is grown extensively in Brazil. The plant is medium sized and a vigorous grower with spiny, dark green leaves. It produces conical-shaped fruit weighing up to 2 lbs (1 kg). The fruit has a green shell with yellow eyes when ripe. The flesh is white, tender, fragrant, high in sugar, and rich in flavor. Outstanding for fresh eating!

Kona Sugarloaf
This plant has smooth leaves and produces fruit that weighs up to 6 lbs (3 kgs). The fruit has a greenish-yellow shell when ripe. The flesh is white, juicy, low in acid, high in sugar, rich in flavor with an edible core. Outstanding for fresh eating!

Del Monte Gold
This variety is a hybrid of Smooth Cayenne. The plant is large and vigorous with nearly spineless leaves. The fruit is smaller than Cayenne, and it has an orange-yellow shell when ripe. The flesh is yellow, very sweet, and low in acid.

Bromeliad Links

Bromeliad Society International

Florida Council of Bromeliad Societies



 bar line

Copyright © 2001-2008 All Rights Reserved
E-mail webmaster
Last Revised August 31, 2008